I started making my own candles years ago when I got frustrated with myself over a store bought candle. I wouldn’t burn it because it was a seasonal scent and not available to purchase other than during autumn. What a waste of time, fighting with myself over this, I thought. So I read books and searched through blogs and made a lot of mistakes but eventually I was churning out candles faster than I could burn them. I used them as hostess gifts, gave them away to friends and family, and wrapped them up for birthdays and Christmas. Then people started asking for more, skipping the part where they invited me over for dinner! Everyone wanted to purchase my candles. The Craftswoman exists because of those friends – thank you.

Equipment

Scale (I have a digital one that reads two decimal points)

Thermometer

Double boiler (or one pan and one pot, making sure the pot can sit inside the pan)

Hot glue gun (some candlemakers use only wax to fix the wick tabs to the bottom of the candle container. Do not do this; as the wax pool reaches the bottom of the container the tab can loosen and float to the side of the container, creating a VERY hot area that could burn someone’s hand. This very thing happened to me with a store-bought candle).

Silicone spatula

Optional – chopstick

Materials

Wax (I use EcoSoya CB-Advanced and the instructions below reflect that; if using a different wax be sure to research usage recommendations)

Wicks with metal tabs (wood or cotton; the size will depend on width of the container and the wax used)

Hot glue sticks

Fragrance oil (I don’t recommend essential oils because they’re expensive and don’t always perform well.)

Heat-safe candle containers (measure the width of the mouth and use that along with the wax type to determine the wick size you need)

Instructions

Set out the containers and make sure they are clean. If your wicks are cotton they likely have been coated with wax already, so heat the glue gun, put a pea-sized amount of hot glue on the bottom of the tab and press it to the bottom of your container. If the container is deep I find it easier to use a chopstick to press the tab down. If you are using wooden wicks put them in your double boiler. The wax added in the next step will coat them, making them easier to light in a candle.

Place your double boiler or small pot on the scale and zero it out. Weigh out the amount of wax you’ll need to fill your containers. Often when you purchase candle jars online the seller lists how much wax the container can hold. Take that number and multiply it by the amount of containers you’re filling. If using a pot and pan, add water to the pan and set the smaller pot inside, making sure the water comes up no more than half-way up the smaller pot. Place your thermometer in the wax. Set the pan with the pot on the stove and set the burner to medium. You want to water to reach a simmer so adjust the heat as needed. Don’t allow the water in the pan to boil dry. Refill with a little water if needed.

Take the weight of your wax and multiply it by (0.1), or 10%. This is the amount of fragrance oil you need. You can use less or sometimes more – the fragrance oil will usually come with usage recommendations. Do not exceed the recommendation; the wax will become saturated and excess fragrance oil will sweat out of your candle. Wait for the temperature of the wax to reach 180F. Turn off the heat, remove the wooden wicks if using, and add the fragrance oil. Stir the wax for two minutes, then let cool in a room temperature area. Meanwhile, glue your wick to the bottom of your containers using a hot glue gun and a chopstick to guide the metal tab if your container is deep. If using wooden wicks, place them in their metal tabs first before gluing.  When the wax cools to about 150F, pour your wax in the container(s). If using identical jars, you may find it helpful to weigh the poured wax to ensure even fills.

Set your container(s) aside to harden. The cotton wicks will need to be propped up. Place an object, like a pencil, chopstick, utensil, etc… across the container and lean the wick against it, centering it in the wax. Allow your candles to cure for at least two weeks before burning.

Notes

I’ve tried Golden Brands 464, American Soy Organics Freedom Soy Wax, and EcoSoya. EcoSoya is my favorite because it allows higher pour temps and produces smooth tops. Freedom Soy is very similar but I find its hot throw weaker. Golden Brands 464 has the strongest throw but sometimes imperfect tops that are easily fixed with a heat gun.

I buy most of my supplies from CandleScience. I have never had an issue that couldn’t be resolved successfully – the hallmark of a quality company in my opinion.

Always let your candle burn until the melt pool reaches the container edges. If after 3–4 hours the wax pool hasn’t spread fully, your wick size is likely incorrect for the container and wax used.